Hoi An

Mandy: Saturday 12th……….

Blurb…..Hoi An is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Ancient Town is a well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century. There are Japanese Merchant houses and the ‘Japanese Bridge’ which is a unique covered structure, the only known covered bridge with a Buddhist pagoda attached to one side.

There are more tourists here than anywhere else we have visited in Vietnam. The atmosphere is buzzing….. Well it started out that way. When we arrived the sun was shining and the skies were blue.

 

Couldn’t agree more (smile)
The Japanese Bridge
The locals were crammed on to this little ferry with their motorbikes…..
An accident waiting to happen I thought
Loving the old biddy on the bike with her fag! (Smile)
Captions please!
The first night was a lovely warm evening and after watching the sunset we watched little girls selling candles in paper holders to float down the river at sunset.

The next day was a different scene…..

Hunkering down in Hoi An against Typhoon Nari 14th and 15th October

We had left a lovely sunny and hot Danang on Saturday but they were now planning to evacuate 55,000 people to higher ground ahead of Typhoon Nari. Here too they were battening down the hatches as we say. Sadly some locals didn’t know anything about it when we asked them and one man in particular said it wouldn’t come this way! Well they were going to get a shock!

During that day we sheltered from the rain in a bar over looking the swollen river as the locals, who only yesterday were shouting out for us to go in their boats up the river ‘cheap price’ were now pulling their boats out of the river and tieing them to granite monuments on the banks. The street vendors, who were selling trinkets and fruit yesterday, were today selling rain macs and umbrellas.

Business as usual! What do you mean a typhoon is coming?

The storm was coming but no one looked frightened or sad some took the opportunity to sell umbrellas or rain macs. That evening others were taking lights down, securing their shops and bars. They said their bars wouldn’t flood, some said the storm wasn’t coming here, it wouldn’t flood their bar…… But it did!
Glen finally had to give in and wear his pac-a-mac! (Chuckle) and he was delighted that the hotel gave him a pink umbrella to finish off his outfit!!

 

Our hotel had taken down the hanging plants from all of the balconies and closed the wooden shutters on the rooms. I wondered whether the frogs and toads would be barking in the ‘field’ by our hotel that night during the typhoon? The night before it had been very hot and humid and we had stood listening to them on the way home.

Anyway, as we looked out at the rain from the bar that day we watched an old women across the other side of the river as she secured her little boat the best she could. It was an interesting scene, she was in the rain wearing normal clothes and, of course, a conical hat and we felt we were getting a glimpse in to her normal life as she prepared her belongings in readiness for yet another Typhoon. Then she suddenly turned her back to us, pulled down her trousers on the edge of the river bank, and pee’d over the side into the water!!! Now I am not sure whether this was some sort of tradition or religious offering to the god of Typhoons asking them to keep her and her vessel safe or if she was just taken short but either way these tough old folk aren’t shy over here!!! Jane, if she was pooping she did so very quickly! And pulled her trousers up equally as fast! (Chuckle)

The wind was strong that evening and we decided to eat in the hotel as trees had already lost leaves and twigs. As we went to our room to sleep later that night we wondered what we would find when we woke in the morning after typhoon Nari hit. We didn’t get much sleep as we heard the winds howling and things banging and creaking. We didn’t have any electric and we could see the staff with lanterns up and down the stairs checking the hotel throughout the night. At 4am Glen got dressed and went down to talk to them. Our balcony over looked the enclosed pool area and reception and we could see leaves everywhere, the corridors outside of our room were also filled with leaves!

Fiddling while Hoi An floods! (Smile)

Glen didn’t need a second invitation when he saw this hanging on the restaurant wall!
….if only it had an ‘e’ string!!!!

The next morning there was water running down the walls in the corridors from the windows and dripping through the light fittings on the ceiling. The staff told us there were tiles off the roof. We could see there were tiles off on the buildings opposite the hotel as well as ours but we didn’t realise the extent of the damage until we walked out later when the winds stopped.

Nari had hit hard. How would they ever get everything cleared away and all of the electric lines back up? There was so much damage everywhere. The same if not worse in Danang too apparently. (Sigh)
These old folk looked on at the scenes around them with a look of “we’ve seen it all before” but this storm was worse than they had seen for a long while. Nari brought down huge old trees which looked like they would never fall. Small houses too, sadly.
The river had broken the banks and had filled the surrounding streets where only last night we had walked.
The pavement along the river was flooded as were the bars and cafés.
This was an open square yesterday with a monument in the middle, after the typhoon the fallen tree covered it completely.
The river is now right up to the buildings, no walk ways.
Before the Typhoon we came across this long open sided food court which held about fifteen individual food stalls/cafés. It was on the opposite side of the river on an island called An Hoi! Women stood by their couple of plastic tables with their own menus and displayed their best ‘local fresh beer’ price to entice people in. (All throughout Vietnam each town brews it’s own beer without using preservatives so it has to be drunk that day) We spoke to some of the women and took their business cards and said we would be back……
The street is now flooded and their building collapsed. This was the saddest thing we saw.
This women was washing her clothes in the flood waters by the river. It was muddy and full of debris as you would expect.
The market by our hotel was a mess…… so they just brought their stalls on to the street.
That night the owner came from Danang…. (He owned the Orange hotel too, where we stayed in Danang). There wasn’t any electric there either and the storm had hit hard. He had been told that they were going to release the Dam (two in fact) inland and the last time they did that the hotel here in Hoi An flooded to shoulder height!!! Everything had to be carried up from Reception and the Restaurant to the first floor! The owner lit some incense sticks and said a silent prayer towards the open pool area. Glen then helped all the staff carry the tables and chairs up to the higher floors. The owner was so pleased and sat with us and gave us free beers. The female staff squeezed Glens arm and said “you very strong” (chuckle) We considered going back to Danang with his driver as we didn’t like the idea of being here with the hotel and streets flooded that badly but he said “no problem, we have a boat to take you from the hotel to higher ground where the car can pick you up if you don’t like it” oh really I thought!! Joy! “Our other guests before when it flooded liked it and thought it was fun to go in the boat” as Danang didn’t have any electric either we decided to stay here!
The day after we woke and saw that the water had not come in to the hotel, everything was fine. The sun was shining, the rain from the storm had gone. We went on a bike ride to the beach. On our 4kms ride to the beach we passed road after road of devastation, huge trees had fallen on to houses and across roads and there were teams of workers everywhere. There were so many electric lines down. But now they were mending the electric wires, collecting the leaves and branches from the road side and people with chain saws and cranes were removing the large trees. The day before all we saw were locals with machetes chopping up the branches and taking them off on bikes or dragging them in sacks. Today the professionals were out in force. (Smile)
 
These Water Buffalo didn’t seem to be bothered… Typhoon? what Typhoon?
We crossed a bridge where two rivers met and merged into one…..
One was ‘muddy’ and one was clear, weird.
Last night we walked out to the old town and everything was getting back to normal. Another day and new tourists would be unaware of the mess and damage. However the ‘Lowlands bar’ we had sat in before the typhoon was the only one still not open though. Their sign brags about being the lowest point in Hoi An…… They were paying the price for that now sadly.
An Hoi island river front at night

It is Friday the 17th and we are still here and enjoying more bike rides out to the villages. As we cycled along this moring there were women with wicker ‘trays’ under their arms with live hens led down (legs tied together) walking along casually like we do coming back from Asda! We passed markets selling meat and fish……. raw meat and fish in this heat doesn’t smell good! Perhaps that is why they wear those face masks not because of the traffic fumes!! Yesterday through the covered meat market I had a job to get from one end to the other as I had to hold my breath, it was awful. Sooo wish I had the nerve to stop and take photos to show you Dad. I do have quite a few in my ‘butchers’ file to show you though.

If only there was some way of capturing photos automatically from our memory we would have such interesting photos to show you. It would be rude to take photos of these people going about their daily life, can you imagine them all coming to England and standing outside Asda laughing and taking photos of us with our meat in plastic dishes with cling film over it!!

Not sure if I have mentioned it before but the food in Vietnam is very good. They use lots of fresh herbs, garlic, lemongrass and chillis etc and we are really enjoying their dishes in Hoi An particularly and Vietnam in general. They could teach Malaysia a thing or two. (wink)

3 Replies to “Hoi An”

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *