Thursday 5th September
When we came across this elaborate pagoda style structure in the street along with the musicians setting up and people generally stood around dressed in traditional clothes each side of the street we thought there could be a wedding. We were wrong!
We asked a boy, who was stood by us, what was happening. He explained that someone he knew, a young 17 year old boy, had died in a motorbike accident a few days before and today was to be his cremation. He didn’t seem sad, in fact none of the people did. Some we’re laughing, even the ones carrying the coffin. He was more than happy to explain things to us. He said that the boys jewellery and belongings, which were inside of the brightly decorate tower, would be cremated along with his body.
“Because the Balinese perceive death not as an end but as a new beginning, a cremation is a time of joyous celebration, the greatest day in a person’s life. The ngaben ritual is the last and most important rite a family can perform for a loved one. Failure to free the soul by neglecting a cremation, or by incomplete or improper rites, renders the soul into a ghost who will wreak havoc on its neglectful descendants.”
The white shroud draped forward over the procession.
Paper ‘wreaths’ were carried along with a photo of the deceased.
These musicians played the instruments, with their hammers, hanging on this metal structure as the procession walked through the streets towards the sea and continued throughout the ceremony.
There were so many women carrying offerings on their heads in the procession.
They walked the coffin around the bamboo pyre several times. The coffin lid was then removed and passed over the heads of the crowd. The body was removed and then the coffin casually thrown over on to a pile of bamboo and offerings from previous Cremations.
One by one the women placed the offerings and his belongings under and on top of his body.
The bamboo pyre had an effigy of a bull at the front. This is from the tradition of rites which includes savraprayascitta (“atonement for everything”), in which is a cow is donated to Brahma to absolve the dying of all his sins and guarantee he or she is carried over the river into heaven.
We saw the white shroud (kajang) being removed….. presumably to enable the burning stick to be entered in to his mouth as is traditionally done by the eldest son. Luckily there was a crowd of men around it so we couldn’t see exactly what they were doing.
The Balinese believe that the soul is lifted to heaven on the column of smoke.
This was a very strange experience. We had read a while back that the local people do not mind if you follow/attend a cremation so although it felt odd we followed the procession for the whole route and stayed there until they started handing out the food and water and then we felt it best to leave. It felt like we were the only sad people there. Although a few of the school girls seemed upset. We are just not used to such a culture and their beliefs I guess.
We came back later and read about the traditions of Balinese Hindu cremations and have learnt so much, very interesting. We then went on to read about Hindu cremation In general especially in India in the Ganges. It is fascinating if a little macabre. Actual a lot macabre.
http://factsanddetails.com/world.php?itemid=1343=55=354
Several things stood out……
The Doms – an Indian subcaste of Untouchables
“The cremations in Varanasi and other places are preformed by the Doms, a subcaste that makes their living burning bodies for cremations for a fee that ranges considerably depending on the wealth of the family.
The Doms are a caste of Untouchables. Touching a corpse after death is viewed as polluting and thus only Untouchables are designated to do this kind of work. So terrible is this work supposed to be the Doms are expected to weep when their children are born and party when death releases them from macabre responsibilities.”
Responsibilities of the eldest son
“In keeping with the Hindu custom of swift cremation, bodies are cremated within 24 hours after death, if at all possible, even if close relatives can not attend the funeral. Ideally cremation is done within 12 hours after death, or at the very latest before sundown on the next day if death occurs late in the afternoon. The first person families of the dead usually call is the “ice wallah” in the nearby market.
Normally the eldest son carries out the funerary rites. He lights the funeral pyre after first placing a burning stick in the mouth of the deceased. One of the primary reasons that Hindus wish for a son is that only sons can carry out funeral rites. It is possible to substitute another relative for a son but this is generally regarded as much less effective.
There is little mourning when a Hindu dies because they believe that once a person is born he or she never dies. Often there is little crying. Some Indians have said this is because the point of a funeral is to show respect not sadness. Other say it is because Hindu believe the dead are off to a world far better than the one they left behind.
Traditionally women have not been allowed at cremations because they might cry. Their tears like all bodily fluids are regard as pollutants. Women are not supposed to enter the cremation area or even watch what goes on inside it. This includes close relatives and family members. They may help lay out the body at home but carrying the body, gathering the wood and lighting the fire are all considered man’s work.”
(Sigh)
The most surprising and mind blowing thing we learnt was the custom of suicides at a cremation. ‘Sati’ (Suttee) Especially the dead man’s wife who would throw herself on to the burning funeral pyre!!!! (Last taken place in 1903 apparently)…….or be buried alive with him! (Look of horror)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sati_(practice)
We also went on to read about current day cremations in the UK. We won’t put a link to that!!! Ignorance is bliss and all that as we now realise.
Like the old Indian taxi driver we met, in Ipoh on that thundery day, I once again wish I had such faith that would allow me to be so…. well…..positive and carefree about life…… and death!
Karen F, we thought of you and Mike that day obviously!
Samir, we thought of you when reading about the remains of the bodies in the Ganges!!!
Karen, we also thought of you too as you will be there in November!
Several things stood out……
The Doms – an Indian subcaste of Untouchables
“The cremations in Varanasi and other places are preformed by the Doms, a subcaste that makes their living burning bodies for cremations for a fee that ranges considerably depending on the wealth of the family.
The Doms are a caste of Untouchables. Touching a corpse after death is viewed as polluting and thus only Untouchables are designated to do this kind of work. So terrible is this work supposed to be the Doms are expected to weep when their children are born and party when death releases them from macabre responsibilities.”
Responsibilities of the eldest son
“In keeping with the Hindu custom of swift cremation, bodies are cremated within 24 hours after death, if at all possible, even if close relatives can not attend the funeral. Ideally cremation is done within 12 hours after death, or at the very latest before sundown on the next day if death occurs late in the afternoon. The first person families of the dead usually call is the “ice wallah” in the nearby market.
Normally the eldest son carries out the funerary rites. He lights the funeral pyre after first placing a burning stick in the mouth of the deceased. One of the primary reasons that Hindus wish for a son is that only sons can carry out funeral rites. It is possible to substitute another relative for a son but this is generally regarded as much less effective.
There is little mourning when a Hindu dies because they believe that once a person is born he or she never dies. Often there is little crying. Some Indians have said this is because the point of a funeral is to show respect not sadness. Other say it is because Hindu believe the dead are off to a world far better than the one they left behind.
Traditionally women have not been allowed at cremations because they might cry. Their tears like all bodily fluids are regard as pollutants. Women are not supposed to enter the cremation area or even watch what goes on inside it. This includes close relatives and family members. They may help lay out the body at home but carrying the body, gathering the wood and lighting the fire are all considered man’s work.”
(Sigh)
The most surprising and mind blowing thing we learnt was the custom of suicides at a cremation. ‘Sati’ (Suttee) Especially the dead man’s wife who would throw herself on to the burning funeral pyre!!!! (Last taken place in 1903 apparently)…….or be buried alive with him! (Look of horror)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sati_(practice)
We also went on to read about current day cremations in the UK. We won’t put a link to that!!! Ignorance is bliss and all that as we now realise.
Like the old Indian taxi driver we met, in Ipoh on that thundery day, I once again wish I had such faith that would allow me to be so…. well…..positive and carefree about life…… and death!
Karen F, we thought of you and Mike that day obviously!
Samir, we thought of you when reading about the remains of the bodies in the Ganges!!!
Karen, we also thought of you too as you will be there in November!
🙁 So tragic!
Wow what a strange experience and mix of emotions. How lovely it’s a celebration though.