Luang Prabang, Laos

Mandy: 15th – 22nd November

Luang Prabang is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its outstanding cultural, historic and architectural values and its harmonious relationship between the natural and built environment. Official blurb over….. This place was a lovely surprise. We came to Laos just because we could, not because of what we had read or seen or heard about it. Glen had read about the architecture etc but we did not look at photos and so we flew in with no expectations. We could see from the air as we came down to land just how beautiful the scenery was. As we got off the ‘plane we could see mountains all around the runway. It looked like an amazing place, and it was.

The Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers meet.

The locals were in the process of re-building the bridges across the rivers now that the rainy season was over.
There were wonderful views from the top of Mount Phou Si in the centre of the old town. The old town peninsula is bordered by the Mekong River on one side and by the Nam Khan River on the other. It has French architecture and lovely French bread too. (smile) the surrounding landscape is breathtaking and the people calm and friendly. We loved our time there.

Buddhism is clearly a part of everyday life there. Orange clad monks walked around town and also worked along the riverside constructing bridges we were surprised to see! But the main ‘event’ there is at 5am when they all leave the Wats and Monasteries in town. They walk along in bare feet, silently in single file past people kneeling on the pavements handing them their daily food. Giving food shows respect to the monks and as mentioned before it is called ‘Alms giving’ although why they have to do this at 5am is beyond me. We got up early one morning and walked to ‘town’ in the dark to witness this daily event. I have since read the monks actually get up at 4am to pray and meditate before they come out! Surely that’s beyond the call of duty?

We got there before it started and waited for the monks to arrive. As they appeared and collected their food for the next hour until day light I couldn’t really feel the religious or cultural poinience of the event. My OCD took over as always. I watched dozens of random people sat on the pavement with reed baskets picking out small blobs of the sticky rice and putting it into each of the monks pots as they walked by. I just thought ‘I hope they all washed their hands!’ of course they didn’t! There isn’t always water to wash your hands after going to the toilets here. The monks silently accepted each blob of rice, small packet of biscuits or tiny bananas from each person which were put directly in their container….all mixed together!!! How they would enjoy that later I could not figure! Most of them looked thin and I could understand why! (Although there was one chubby one…not sure what that was about) anyway at the end of the line there were young happy but grubby looking children and older women knelt on the pavements, hands together, heads lowered with cardboard boxes in front of them. As the monks walked past them they all put some of what they had collected in to their boxes. Apparently this is something they do. Giving something back to those who need it. That’s ok as the children looked like they needed it. But now this rice had been touched AGAIN by the monks taking it out of their pot to put it in the cardboard boxes for the children!!

One middle-aged women was sat at the end of the line around the corner with a large bowl and several carrier bags. She seemed to get most of the food given back to her. She separated it into bags, bananas in one, biscuits in the other and the blobs of cooked rice stayed in the big bowl. I couldn’t help but think she looked very much like the lady who was selling the food earlier to any tourists who wanted to join in by giving food to the monks themselves. It looked like she was sorting it ready to sell it to more tourists tomorrow! Glen said he felt sure she was from a local orphanage or simular. Who knows!

And finally….. any left overs were being fed to the local dogs (smile)

We went on a 30km Tuk Tuk ride through the villages to the Waterfalls

If you go down to the woods today……. Bear rescue centre near the falls.

The magnificent Kuang Si waterfall
We walked up through the trees to the top of the waterfall…. I say ‘walk’ it was more like an forty minute rock climbing season! There was an easier way on the other side of the waterfall but we didn’t find it until we were on the way down!!
The long climb up was sooo worth it though (smile)

Like I said in a previous blog, you have to put your washing in the sun to get it dry in this humid weather…no matter where that means you hang it!

And while you are drying the washing why not dry the sausages too!

I never cease to be amazed at where they leave the food to dry here in Asia; and with so many dogs and cats on the streets in Luang Prabang I do not know how it’s not eaten before it gets a chance to dry!

Cow skin drying in the sun too! There were lots of different sizes of skin, some huge long strips with big black hairs on. They sold them in the market, packaged ready for you to take home to cook!
No fear of the cats or dogs eating the chillies I guess!
When I went to take this photo of the rice it was covered in little birds eating it, but they flew away………… Asian bird flu came to mind!

This grandmother was looking after her granddaughter while her Mum cooked our noodles (smile) She was five months old, the same age as Eloise. I have become obsessed with asking the age of all the babies here if they look about Eloise’s age

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People (and insect) watching by the Mekong River one lunchtime…..

We sat watching this guy on the small boat go around the big boat washing the sides. We wondered whether this was the Laos equivalent of people washing your windscreen when you stop at traffic lights in the UK (smile)

These were the biggest ants we saw, and we’ve seen a lot! There were dozens of them walking along the wooden handrail by our table up a wire high up in to the trees.
A bridge too far… We cycled over it but I was too frightened to walk back along to see the view!
Glen didn’t seem concerned that some of the wooden slats were falling through!

When we first arrived here we saw a guy going by on crutches, he had a leg missing. Laos is the most heavily bombed country, per capita, in the world. (Fact correct as of 2008) An average of one B-52 bomb-load was dropped on Laos every eight minutes, 24 hours a day, between 1964 and 1973. (How can that be justified) When more than 580,000 bombing missions were launched by the U.S. Air Force, in a war that most of the Western world didn’t know about. As a result, more than two million tons of ordnance fell on Laos. Many of which have exploded in the years since causing such injuries and many deaths. A frightening amount still remains unexploded today.

Read more…..

http://lao-foundation.org/learn-about-laos/unexploded-ordnance-landmines/

Here are a few photos of the butchers in Luang Prabang, just for you Dad. We could have done with you here to identify some of the parts (and animals!) they were selling! Notice the butchers were mostly women.

I could post so many photos on here of all the meat (cooked and uncooked) that we saw in the markets and on food stalls of whole baby birds on sticks! etc but one thing I did want to put on here to help us remember is this bag of dried cow lungs! I think they need to rethink their labelling!
Gorgeous sunset over the Mekong River and Laos mountains.
We will miss Luang Prabang and will always remember the friendly people in our Guest Houses and in the Cafes as well as the travellers we met and spoke to there.

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