Pai, Northern Thailand

Mandy: 3rd – 14th November

Before we left Chiang Mai 12 days ago we saw people putting up lanterns and decorations in the streets around town. Fireworks were being let off prematurely by the local teenagers down by the river and people were releasing Chinese lanterns in to the night sky. We didn’t wait around for the festival they were preparing for; the walking street markets were manic enough without the excuse for a celebration. Instead we took a minibus on a slow three and a half hour climb through the winding mountain roads to Pai. We had read that there are 762 curves on the 135km journey by road and that seemed about right. Pai……. how do I describe it?

Pai is high up in the sky in the mountains, either that or the clouds are very low and live there. Either way it seemed like you could touch them, and they touched us often the first few days. (Hence the new rain macs that you will see later!) The views here are amazing with and without the clouds and morning mist as you will see from our various photos. Apologies for putting so many in this blog but we are desperately trying to show how wonderful it is, but as always photos just don’t capture it. However it will help us remember our special time here.

Living life on the edge!

Can your imagine being allowed access to such an area in the UK! I am sure it would have been fenced off with big warning signs!

You never know what you will meet when you turn a corner in a country lane here.
Try as I might I just can’t take to Glen in a hat….even if it is my favourite colour!

We only spent one night at our first place in Pai (at Pai Radise Resort) as they were fully booked. Their staff helped us relocate to a nearby ‘hut’ at Pai Doo See! Glen went on the back of the owners motorbike and I went with the luggage! (Chuckle)

There are lots of ants of various colours and sizes in Pai and giant spiders…….oh and bats!!!!

We loved spending dusk sat on the balcony of our ‘hut’ at Pai Doo See Guest House watching as the bats swooped again and again just over our heads at high speed catching the flies and hopefully the Mosquitos!

This spider was in it’s huge web all week. We passed it as we walked into the village. The web was between two electric wires and it’s the biggest web and spider we had ever seen. About the size of the palm of our hand. What a wonderful view it has. (smile)

The amount of monks here has been made up by the amount of dogs which are everywhere; resting or running along in the most inconvenient places. Pai is lush and green…. and, well just lush basically. It is a quiet place with less weird characters about than Chiang Mai. Having said that there was a guy who is known as Jack Sparrow….can’t think why!

There haven’t been many birds singing at dawn considering how many trees we’ve been nestled amongst but those we have see were cute, and some looked like parakeets…maybe they were parakeets.

One morning we went 12kms out of Pai on our motorbike through little country lanes (up hill and down dale) in the drizzle to see the Mor Paeng Waterfall. As we got nearer and slowed down due to the steepness of the hill a local villager stepped in to the road In front of us and she ‘asked’ if we wanted to buy some Opium! (I don’t think she was talking about the perfume!) Glen said “No thank you, although we like Thailand we don’t want to spend the rest of our lives here……in prison!”
Glen has lost all of his inhibitions here….and self respect I think! (Chuckle) Don’t you just love our new cheap plastic rain macs (wink)
When we put our old macs on in Bangkok at Wat Arun Temple we felt a little foolish as we climbed the steps to get a better view of the rain clouds and lightening over the river. A young Asian tourist simply held his crisp map about his neatly gelled hair and continued to explore. We came back down the steps an hour later, dry under our macs, to see that he on the other hand had, what was effectively, a big blob of paper mâché on his head. (chuckle)
You won’t believe this but these macs are sought after. We were asked where we bought them by a Chinese couple one night! I think we are in fashion in China! We noticed that Chinese people travel in and go on day trips dressed in the sort of clothes that we would only consider fit for a wedding! Talking of which, there were a lot of newly weds in Pai. They would get out of the buses in the morning, still wearing their long white Wedding dresses (and the Groom often wearing posh shorts and dicky-bow!) and then hire a motorbike! (Smile) they must have thought we were a right scruffy pair. (Chuckle)

When we arrived there were banners across the main road announcing something to the Thai people but we didn’t know what it said. Then one day every shop and cafe had people sat outside on the floor making some sort of floral arrangements. Some were small and some were so large we saw two women struggling to carry them. Stalls went up around town too, selling Chinese lanterns. Then one night the locals paraded through the streets, some in traditional outfits carrying large floral baskets and flags. One group carried and played an unusual instrument and dressed as some sort of mythical creature. They all marched down to the bridge and lined up by the river and put their flower baskets in the river. The Bridge was lined with stalls selling smaller floral baskets which we had seen being made by people sat cross legged on the floor amongst banana leaves and flowers earlier in the day. Hundreds of lanterns were being released and a band was playing on a make shift stage at the rivers edge. Fireworks were randomly being let off all evening. The locals were having a wonderful time despite us tourists not because of us which was good to see. It was a lovely atmosphere.

I googled it up…. (Smile)

The Loi Krathong festival is celebrated annually throughout Thailand. We were lucky to be here to experience it. The name could be translated as “to float a basket”, and comes from the tradition of making krathongor buoyant, decorated baskets, which are then floated.

We saw this little homemade karthong floating in our pond the next morning…so did the huge fish!

On the night of the full moon in November, Thais (and some areas in Burma and Laos) launch their krathong on a river, canal or a pond, making a wish as they do so. The krathong’s floating symbolises letting go of all one’s hatred, anger, and defilements. People sometimes cut their fingernails or hair and place the clippings on the krathong as a symbol of letting go of past transgressions and negative thoughts apparently. That would perhaps explain why we have seen so many men with very long nails in Burma on at least one hand! Maybe they were growing them in readiness of this festival. (wink)

There were fireworks in the evening and then random loud firecrackers could be heard late in to the night. Because Pai is set in a valley surrounded by mountains they resinated around the valley and it sounded like bombs being dropped. (that’s just typical of my imagination!)

Loi Krathong coincides with the Lanna festival known as Yi Peng which is why we saw so many lanterns being released too.

So there you are, we now know what the large banner said I guess.

As well as very long finger nails, men in Asia have very long random facial hairs growing, seemily having never been cut, that has got to be annoying surely? And painful if you pull one by mistake! Surely babies are naturally curious and pull them! Zoom in to the photo below,(Tap or click on the picture and it will open in a new tab and then you can zoom in) which was taken to show the grey hairs (Just showing from the other side of is face) not to see me stood on the Memorial Bridge. We have seen this a lot in Indonesia, Vietnam and last month in Burma.

Although it all looked magical at the time (the lanterns not the hairs!) I couldn’t help but think about where the lanterns would land once they burnt out and what sort of dam/log jam the floral baskets would make down stream until they decomposed.

Since experiencing that happy procession we have seen another procession through town; this time not so exciting as It was a funeral.

We didn’t follow this one like we did in Sanur, Bali last year. The mourners looked different, not sad but sort of private. (as private as you can be parading through the town like this)

More photos of beautiful Pai

We climbed up to see this impressive white Buddha which overlooks the beautiful Pai valley and stayed to watch the sunset.

We walk by this stall everyday and I have twice seen children sneaking a sample as if they were trying/taking a sweet! Just how and where you are brought up I guess.

This huge ‘cricket’ type creature was on the sign of the next food stall, I assume he was meant to be fried along with the other insects but got away!!!

Pai’s tiny airport, with the shortest runway we have ever seen! Glad we arrived by minivan!

We have spent most of our stay back in a ‘hut’ in the Pai Radise Guest House.  It has made a nice change from all of the cities we have stayed in. Pai has been the first place that has made us feel we are on holiday. However It’s time to move on, our holiday is over, back to travelling and exploring. Laos is calling!

11 Replies to “Pai, Northern Thailand”

  1. Thank you for your comments. It’s good to know who is reading my ramblings, the likes we get on the actual blog page doesn’t tell us who they are. x There are so many more photos to show and so much more to talk about here. We have met and spoken to more people here than anywhere in our travels this year and last. More characters and tales to tell as always but Glen is very strict on my blog time lol! 😉

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